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CONFINING YOUR CAT WILL SPEED ITS ADJUSTMENT TO NEW HOME Reprinted from "PET CONNECTION"- April 17, 2001
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One of the most pervasive myths about cats is that they care more
about places than people. This idea is surely based on how free-
roaming cats have a difficult time leaving a home behind and will
travel blocks, or even miles, to return to old stomping grounds.
Cats are highly territorial and will seek out familiar places when
stressed, which is why they attempt to return to their old homes.
But they'll be much happier going where you go if you take steps
to ease their transition from one home to another.
While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either you or your
cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet
secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your
pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.
The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room"
before and after the move, and transport him from one house to
another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bed-
room or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and
where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a
scratching post and toys.
Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in
a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing
people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Con-
fining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is
a danger at both the old and new home. A frightened cat may be
hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's
somewhere you can put your hands on him.
When you get to your new home, leave the carrier, with its door
removed, in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave
him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with
treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much
of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out --
you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.
A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down,
open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of
the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a
couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond
with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the oppor-
tunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status.
Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a
longer, safer life.
It's relatively easy to make the conversion in a new home. He'd carry
on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings
he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats
don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the
outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to
revisit and re-mark it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept
the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't
part of it, he won't miss it as much.
Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during
the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that
might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's
options to the litter box and scratching post in his small safe
room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your
old home.
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We wish to remind our readers to please consult with your veterinarian professional before taking any action. All information on this page is provided for information purposes only and Northumberland Hills Woodworking accepts no liability or responsibilty, real or implied, by presenting this information to the general public. |
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